Archive

Everything on the site, in order

Twenty-seven pieces across twelve sections. This is the complete list; the front page is a selection from it.

01  ·  The river, and why it is clear
PieceWhat it coversSection
A river clear enough to see the bottom of, and that is the pointThe Wulik rises in the De Long Mountains and runs to the Chukchi Sea, and its clarity is the baseline every argument about the watershed refers back to.Cold Water
The mountains that make the water coldThe De Long Mountains are the western end of the Brooks Range, and they set the temperature and the sediment load of everything below.Cold Water
02  ·  One fish organises the year
PieceWhat it coversSection
A char that has to come back to fresh water to survive winterDolly Varden feed at sea and return to overwinter in specific river reaches, which makes those reaches the whole population's bottleneck.Char
The fish decide the year's shapeSubsistence harvest is organised around when the char are where, and that timing is the practical calendar of the region.Char
Salmon are here too, and further north each decadeChum salmon use the same systems and their northern distribution has been shifting, which is documented rather than anecdotal.Char
03  ·  Everything here is built on gravel or not at all
PieceWhat it coversSection
Gravel is the only foundation that worksStructures are built on thick gravel pads to keep heat away from the permafrost beneath, and the pad is usually the largest single cost.Gravel
Warm ground is a structural failureThawing permafrost loses bearing capacity, so a building that was stable for decades can move in a few seasons.Gravel
04  ·  Sea ice was the shoreline's armour
PieceWhat it coversSection
The sea used to freeze before the autumn stormsShorefast ice formed early enough to protect the coast through the storm season. It now forms later, and the storms arrive at open water.Ice
Coastal erosion is measured in metres per year hereErosion rates along this coast are documented annually, and they are the number the relocation case rests on.Ice
05  ·  A private road across tundra
PieceWhat it coversSection
A private road built for one customerThe DeLong Mountain Transportation System road runs from the mine to the coast, and it exists for concentrate haulage rather than for public access.The Road
A gravel road is also a dispersal mechanismDust from haul roads is monitored because it settles on tundra and snow well beyond the corridor itself.The Road
06  ·  A zinc mine at the head of the watershed
PieceWhat it coversSection
One of the largest zinc mines in the world, at the head of a riverRed Dog is a major zinc producer sitting in the Wulik's upper watershed, which is why water quality here is monitored as closely as it is.Mine
A mine on land held by a regional corporationThe operating agreement between the regional corporation and the operator is the reason the mine exists in this form, and royalties flow through it.Mine
Containment is the whole engineering problemTailings and water management in a place that freezes and thaws is the part of the operation that has to work for longer than the mine runs.Mine
07  ·  A port with no harbour
PieceWhat it coversSection
A port with no harbour, so the ships stay offshoreThere is no deep water at the coast, so concentrate is lightered out to vessels anchored well offshore.Port
The shipping season is about a hundred daysIce closes the coast for most of the year, so a year's production moves in one short open-water window.Port
08  ·  Everything is a permit before it is a project
PieceWhat it coversSection
The discharge standard is the operating constraintPermitted discharge limits and the monitoring around them are the terms on which the operation continues, and they have been litigated.Permits
Somebody measures this river continuouslyLong-run monitoring datasets exist for this watershed, which is unusual and is why the arguments here can be specific.Permits
09  ·  A village being moved
PieceWhat it coversSection
A village on a barrier island, and the island is narrowingKivalina sits on a barrier island between a lagoon and the Chukchi Sea, and the land available to it has been shrinking for decades.Kivalina
Relocation has been studied since the 1990sMultiple agency studies have examined moving the village, and the record of those studies is itself the clearest account of why it has not happened.Kivalina
Where the school goes decides where the village goesIn a community this size the school is the largest building and the largest investment, so siting it is effectively siting the settlement.Kivalina
10  ·  The ground itself moves
PieceWhat it coversSection
The second largest earthquake ever recordedThe Good Friday earthquake of 27 March 1964 reached magnitude 9.2 and reshaped coastline hundreds of miles away.Ground Motion
The Aleutian trench is why this happensThe Aleutian subduction zone produces the largest events, and the monitoring network across the state exists because of it.Ground Motion
11  ·  Travel is seasonal and the seasons are changing
PieceWhat it coversSection
Winter is when the country opens upFrozen ground and rivers make travel easier in winter than in summer, which inverts the assumption most visitors arrive with.Overland
Freeze-up and break-up are the weeks nobody movesThe transitions between ice and open water are the periods when neither boat nor snowmachine works, and they are lengthening.Overland
12  ·  A 1971 act made corporations out of villages
PieceWhat it coversSection
A 1971 act settled land claims by creating corporationsThe Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act extinguished aboriginal title and conveyed land and money to newly created regional and village corporations.Land Claims
The regional corporation is a landowner and an employerNANA holds land across the region and is a party to the mine agreement, which is why corporate structure and subsistence land use are the same conversation here.Land Claims